Manager Forum

Just did the oil cooler and egr coolers. Anyone else have done these yet. What a problem child these are. Vehicle was using coolant like crazy puffing white smoke. You would of swore it was a head gasket. Input

Yes we have. Big problem.

this was my first one and it is going to be a regular thing i think you all will see

we've done them and now stock an extra set of bolts to replace the rotted oil cooler housing.

Done my first last month and my second yesterday. The first one had water running out the exhaust like a hose pipe turned on, the truck also failed a combustion gas check on the cooling system indicating a blown headgasket, customer wanted me to try the cooler first and it stoped the water running out of the pipe but I still had to do head gaskets anyhow. The second one also failed the combustion gas test but the cooler fixed it. It looked real scarey at first ( I am not a deisel person) but it wasn't that bad and I look foward to doing more headgasket jobs on these, at 25+ hours they pay good. Had to replace an injector in another one last week, not a big deal either.

mine failed the combustion test but i told the customer lets start with these first then retest. there are going to be tons of these to do. did you take the cab off for the heads?

All my lifts are single post, so I had to do it with the cab still on the truck. It was a F250 super duty 4x4 with 6" lift. Had to use an old desk in front of the truck to stand on and a piece of plywood bolted to the radiator support mounting holes. Done most of the job standing on my head. I know 85lbs pluse 270 degrees is a lot of torque to pull in an akward possition.

Yes, those pesky 6.0L Ford applications give us alot of hamburgers on the grill. Am working on another one right now.

In training school, our instructor says these engines were designed broke. Interesting!

just a tip here. we work on these bombs in different ways. one way we use is to remove the front tires and lower the vehicle. depending on the angle we remove the hood as well (saves face plants). the other way we have a small staging assembly we assemble around the vehicle to work on. when we're doing engine work we have (home made) placement trays we either place on the cowel or hang over the fender. they're sectioned off to keep the bolts seperate. being in the northeast i have created "boxed bolt sets". for example if we're doing a 6.0 i have an exhaust manifold bolt kit with studs. i have new bolts for the oil cooler as well. it took a while but i'm lucky that there is an albecco fastener location ten minutes from the shop and i've been able to put these kits together. dorman has a limited supply of bolt kits as well. i feel that if i'm doing major repairs that are costly i'll always use new bolts on manifolds or any other visible point. i've had more than one compliment from customers saying that it's apparent that i took great care in the repair. oh ya, one more thing, we ALWAYS remove the hood latch. two or three bolts and it drops out of sight and you don't have to worry about getting your hoo hoo hurt.

For those extended jobs on tall vehicles, we find the Topside Creeper works well.

I dont have many problems with fasteners out here. In arizona rust is(luckily) a rarity.

The first one I did came back in this morning on a flat bed trailer for a no start. Found a bad high pressure pump, I have never changed one of these, but looking at the repair article it does not look too bad. Is there anything I need to look out for when doing this? Could I have done anything to cause this to go out while doing the heads? It has been a little over 4 weeks and 6k miles since the repairs, every thing is dry and full but there is metal in the screen of the IPR so I a am repalceing both parts, is the the correct thing to do?

Never done one on a 6.0L How did you determin it was pump? Just for my future info

I pulled the IPR and it had metal in the inlet screen and the repair article said that means the high pressure pump needs replaced. It is only getting 259 psi at 225 RPM, it needs at least 500psi for the FICM to command injectors on, the desired spec ( according to the scanner PID) is a little under 1200psi cranking, never really looked at the desired PID on one that was running, so don't really know what it should get at higher speeds. I will check on that after I get it running again. I just don't want there to be anything I could have done to cause this problem, the cust isn't trying to say anything like that, I just need to know for myself. This must be a real common problem as the dealer had both parts in stock and will deliver them tommorow. Will try to get on it early enough to finish it tommorow and post the out come. If anyone has anything to add for me I will greatly appreciate it.

lil joe, i got into the habit of setting the pumps on the bench so the oil and fuel stays in it. if it drains out it may score internally during start up. i'm sure you primed everything before you fired it up but with all the miles on it the demise was guarentied when it was removed. i've tried everything to keep them healthy while off and i've been using a cooking syringe and corn oil. load the syringe and squirt it into the pump. as far as it being your fault the answer is i'de have to say that it was beyond the time expected. it's collateral damage. i explain this all to my customers before i start the job. another tip here is that if you ever have one with a bad turbo replace it with the one available that's a quick spool and has the waste gate by passed. the customer will love the increased power. don't worry about over working the engine i've installed these on plow trucks with great results.

ricmorin wrote:For those extended jobs on tall vehicles, we find the Topside Creeper works well.

topsidecreeper.jpg

we use those as well. for regular maintenance they work great but for any lifting they're a bit cumbersom. i tried using one to replace an intake and after a while there was a comfortability issue. on a few instances the "boy's" go a bit irritated.

We've done a bunch of these. What a party in an E series. Also learned the hard way to not do an EGR cooler without an oil cooler

liljoe wrote:I pulled the IPR and it had metal in the inlet screen and the repair article said that means the high pressure pump needs replaced. It is only getting 259 psi at 225 RPM, it needs at least 500psi for the FICM to command injectors on, the desired spec ( according to the scanner PID) is a little under 1200psi cranking, never really looked at the desired PID on one that was running, so don't really know what it should get at higher speeds. I will check on that after I get it running again. I just don't want there to be anything I could have done to cause this problem, the cust isn't trying to say anything like that, I just need to know for myself. This must be a real common problem as the dealer had both parts in stock and will deliver them tommorow. Will try to get on it early enough to finish it tommorow and post the out come. If anyone has anything to add for me I will greatly appreciate it.

You are getting the fuel pressures from the scanner correct? I have watched the pids before and have messed with these babies a little but as they say they were made broken and its almost like if the person who designed them cannot get it right how can I.

The pressure reading is for the high pressure oil, not fuel. The scanner read 259 psi, I hooked up a manual guage and it was around 260psi, so I figure the IPC sensor is good. The pump was not removed when doing heads on this, there is no need, it lives under the intake at the rear of the engine, also it has no fuel going through it, just oil. As fas as priming, there is no way to prime any thing on this engine (at least that I can find in Mitchell), it is all sealed and electronicly controlled.

It says the oil pressure should be 450-4000 psi. I dont have a gauge that goes that high. And how do you know its the pump and not the oil going somewere else? Just going off the metal or experience.? Im not grilling you I just wanna know for myself in the future if I run accross one. If Im not mistaken cant it leak internally to show up as low on the pids? And if so how can you determine were the leak is? Or is it just so common of a problem that its alway the pump? Please let me know im intersted since these are such problems